Total distance: 75.53 miles; total ascent 5157 feet; Ave Speed 9.7.mph; Maximum speed 33.6mph; total time in saddle 7 hours 49 minutes.
Surprisingly when Russ opened the curtains this morning the sun was shining. This was not expected.
After a below average breakfast served to us by the cleaner, we gathered our stuff together and prepared for what we both knew was going to be a big day. Gathering our stuff together is becoming a chore in itself. Every night everything explodes out of the panniers and every morning it has to be repacked maliciously to ensure that the panniers close ok and provide a water tight seal. Keeping stuff clean and fresh is difficult and my cycling gear is beginning to smell decidedly unpleasant. Hopefully soon we'll find a B&B or Guesthouse where we can properly wash and dry some stuff.
Unbelievably and no joke, the moment we made the first pedal stroke of the day it started spitting with rain. Immediately Russ decided it was not worth the risk and unpacked his waterproofs (jacket, trousers and over shoes). I followed suit with the over shoes (I already had on the jacket I bought yesterday and I don’t have any trousers).
As we followed the tow path to Carnforth (not a pleasant town) it rained, steadily but not heavily. We followed minor roads through the Yealand hamlets, past Beetham, Milnthrope, Underbarrow and then crossed into the Lake District country park. The wonder of this, my most favorite part of the country, stretched out in front of us, although the mountain tops looked ominously covered with black cloud, and it was generally grey and very overcast.
At Windermere we took the ferry and then followed the Hawkshead loop (v steep inclines) before joining up with the A591 at Rydal, just north of Ambleside. Before commencing on the A road, we purchased an ice cream, from the most garrulous ice cream seller north of Blackpool. The ice cream was excellent though , so good in fact that I had two (both with flakes).
Once on the A591 we headed north towards Keswick and tackled the longest incline yet – approx. 700 feet over nearly a mile. At the top I pulled over, hid behind a bush and lavished arse cream onto my shattered bum. Today the pain factor was in the 8s and 9s, I need things to sort themselves out and soon really, otherwise I fear I could be permanently crippled in this most sensitive area. (It was comforting though that when Russ caught up, he too took cover behind the same bush to engage with the arse cream, that made me feel a bit better).
Before Keswick we veered off right towards the wall of mountain that is Blencathra and stopped for photos and bananas. We then crossed the fearsome A66 and followed the adjacent cycle path until effectively turning left taking minor roads through Mungrisdale, Bowscale Fell and the enchanting Hesket Newmarket where we stopped at around 5.50pm for more food, which was well overdue, particularly for Russ.
The rain and dank morning had transformed itself into a beautiful late afternoon/early evening sunshine which bathed the beautiful vistas surrounding us. This part of the Lake District is truly unspoilt and left untouched by tourists, a real must for checking out and it was wonderful to be able to enjoy it, via the laziness of a push bike.
We finally made Carlisle around 7.30 and both agreed that the day had been quite intense. Not surprising seeing as it involved more the 5000 feet of climbing. A basic, but comfortable guest house was organised by the brilliant Ally who is really coming into her own in forward booking our accommodation – a task that will become even more important as we venture into Scotland.
Finally a big thank you to Stu and Silv, who organised a table for two at the Vivaldi Italian restaurant – by sheer fluke a stone’s throw from the Guest House. Even better the bill had been ‘taken care of’ – thank you so much guys, you are too generous!
Finally a sad note to end. Before we arrived at Windermere, we came across a beautiful owl that had become tragically stuck in barbed wire at the roadside, it's wing torn and bleeding. We could do nothing for the poor creature and being the animal lover that I am, the day was scarred somewhat by continually thinking it’s painful fate :’-(
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