Tuesday 24 May 2011

Day 12 - Back to (relative) Normality

Dalmally - Fort William (Tuesday)

Total distance: 58.77 miles; total ascent 2129 feet; Ave Speed 10.5mph; Maximum speed 29.1mph; total time in saddle 5 hours 36 minutes.

It took me some while to drift off to sleep last night. I think the day's events were spinning too glaringly in my head to allow rest to come quickly. The electricity did come on though eventually, so at least we could charge up our various electronic gadgetry.

WE awoke at around 8am and the sky was blue. At 8.15 it was grey and raining - the day essentially went on to mirror this pattern.

After a mediocre breakfast, we oiled our chains and set off at around 9.30, following the A85 to Connel our first milestone around 19 miles away.

It seemed to take forever. In fact by the time we hit Connel it was past midday and neither of us could quite account for why this fairly routine section had taken so long. The road wasn't particularly busy, although the wind was against us, but nowhere near as agressive as yesterday. I conclude that our overall drive and spirit was somewhat depleted after the tumultuous events of the day before.

Eventually after numerous, food, toilet, waterproof on-off breaks (Russ), we made Connel and diverted right over the extremely windy bridge crossing the Falls of Lora onto the A828.

The A828 is shadowed by the best Sustrains cycle track running for most of it's length. Freshly constructed and some parts stillto be completed, it is a credit to the Scottish authorities. A wonderfully smooth tarmac surface, well signposted, easy and beautiful to navigate, it skirted alongside Loch Creran offering surely the best views from any cycle track the UK has to offer. The only problem was several fallen trees, one of which necessitated lifted the bikes over broken branches and substantial tree truck remains. In fact all of our journey today bore the scars of yesterday's storms. Little wonder it had made national news.

After abut 20 miles to A828 eventually gives way to the infamous A82 and the last 15 odd miles to Fort William. There is no other way to make this trip, more's the pity. The A82 is a dreadful and sometimes terrifying experience. I watched as Russ was twice nearly taken out by aggressive and impatient HGVs, fighting to rule a narrow single carriageway road. This was not fun and there was sadly no cycle path alternative for us to retreat to.

Ally had found us a B&B in Fort William whose proprietor was a keen cyclist and happy to wash and dry our stinking 12 day old morass of stinking kecks, lycra, socks and t-shirts. Our room has the most stunning views across Loch Linnhe and with a complimentary malt to boot, it has helped ease the pain of a difficult day, mentally.

Our spirits are now lifted though I feel, following a decent Chinese in town and a few beers. The end is in sight and baring disasters, we should meet up with Larri in John O'Groats on Saturday afternoon.

I have been lent waterproof trousers by the Guesthouse owner and we'll pop into toen first thing tomorrow to pick up some thermals - it's getting colder by the day as we venture further north.

Rest now and a word about my dearest wife. It's easier for me to endure the passing of 16 odd days without seeing Larri as I'm involved in drama and seeing/doing something different each day. For her the routine is as usual but without me. I know I would find this hugely difficult if the boot was on the other foot. I can only say a massive, massive thank you to her for putting up with my stupid whims and ludicrously spontaneous nature which calls me to doing such daft things. Needless to say none of my adventures would be worthwhile without knowing I had her companionship, strength and love in bucket loads.

I can't wait to see you my love xx

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